Thursday 29 March 2012

Out of stock?

Stock also called broth or bouillon, is a flavorful liquid made by gently cooking meat, chicken or fish (with bones) in water and used for making sauces, soups, glaces and can be used for braising or poaching. I have read that in order for this liquid to be called stock, it must be made with bones therefore there is no such thing as vegetable stock. Not so sure this is true but sounds interesting. I have also read that the term comes from professional chefs keeping this important liquid ingredient "in stock" until they need it to cook with.






The difference between broth and stock is one of both cultural and colloquial terminology but certain definitions prevail. Stock is the thin liquid produced by simmering raw ingredients: solids are removed, leaving a thin, highly-flavored liquid. This gives classic stock as made from beef, veal, chicken, fish and vegetable stock. Broth differs in that it is a basic soup where the solid pieces of flavoring meat or fish, along with some vegetables, remain. It is often made more substantial by adding starches such as rice, barley or pulses.

Stocks are prepared specifically for use in other recipes (sauces, soups, stews, rice, etc.) Stocks are lightly or never salted in their preparation or the finished dish will most likely end up too salty due to reduction that will take place upon further cooking.
Stocks are usually simmered for a very long time (4-6 hours for chicken & 8-12 for veal/beef) to extract maximum flavor and gelatin from the bones.
Broths aren't usually cooked nearly as long due to the fact that cooking the meat for extended periods (even chicken surrounded by the liquid) will result in tough, flavorless meat.

Vegetable Stock
I find the basic flavor of a good vegetable stock very handy and use it in many dishes.  When deglazing pans, especially when using cream and cheeses in a dish, it cuts the richness of the sauce without compromising on flavor.  I make a big batch of stock and freeze in separate portions for later use.  A handy tip is to pore the stock into an ice tray and simply defrost the ice cubes as u go along.  


Ingredients

1 tbsp olive oil

½ onion, diced

½ leek, diced

1 carrot, diced
1 small bulb fennel, diced
3 garlic cloves, left whole and gently crushed
about 20 black peppercorns
8-10 button mushrooms
1 stick celery, diced
3 tomatoes, diced
3-4 fresh parsley stalks, roughly torn

To make the vegetable stock, add the olive oil to a heavy-bottomed pan or stockpot over a medium heat. Add the onion, leek, carrot and fennel and sweat for 2-3 minutes.
Add enough cold water to generously cover the vegetables and turn up the heat to high.
Add the garlic, peppercorns, mushrooms, celery, tomatoes and parsley and stir together. Bring to the boil and boil gently for 15 minutes. Pour the stock through a sieve. Discard the vegetable pieces or reserve for another use. The liquid stock is ready to be used. It can be stored in the fridge for up to three days or frozen in batches for future use.

7 tips for full-flavored vegetable stock

i. chop fine
When I make meat based stock I tend to just roughly hack the veg and not bother to peel even the onions. When you’re looking to maximise the flavour from your vegetables, however, a finer dice is better as it increases the amount of surface area in contact with the water – so it’s easier for the flavours to be infused into the broth. You don’t need to go too crazy – it’s up to you how much time you’re prepared to spend cutting.

ii. lightly brown your aromatics
Sweating your aromatic veg – the onion, celery and carrot helps them develop sweeter flavours with more complexity to add to your stock rather than just chucking them in raw.

iii. be generous with the mushrooms
Mushrooms contain intrinsically high levels of glutamic acid which makes them little powerhouses of flavour enhancing goodness – we’re talking natural MSG that imparts those lovely savoury, umami-type flavours.

iv. go for tomato
Tomatoes are another great source of savoury goodness. The colour they bring can be quite attractive, unless you want a neutral stock.

v. start with cold water
Different flavour components have different levels of solubility in water at different temperatures. By starting cold and slowly increasing the heat, you can be sure that all the flavours have had a chance to be extracted at their preferred temperature.

vi. let it simmer
To further extract all the flavour goodness, letting the vegetables gently simmer is optimum. Too high a heat and you can boil off some of the more delicate flavours, too low and you won’t coax all the flavour out of your veg.

vii. taste as you go
I find it helpful to take a little sample at regular intervals and taste the stock. It’s then fun to keep samples from different times so you can taste them all together at the end and see how the flavour of your stock has developed over time. It also helps you decide when to stop cooking: when the flavour isn’t tasting any stronger between samples.

More info

Consomme: a fortified and clarified stock. The stock is fortified in flavor by the addition of a "raft" which is a combination of lean ground meat (appropriate to the type of stock being used) with brunoise (1/16 inch) mirepoix (carrots, onions, celery), and egg whites. The raft mixture is stirred into the cold stock and as it gently heats, the proteins coagulate forming a "raft" on top of the stock. A small hole is poked in the center (if one hasn't already formed) and as the stock bubbles through the hole it leaches back through the ground meat/egg white raft which filters out impurities to clarify the stock and fortify it with flavor.

Bouillon: French word for broth.
Court Bouillon: sometimes called a "short broth". A poaching liquid usually used for fish that is usually comprised of water, acid (lemon juice, vinegar, wine), parsley stems, bay leaves, peppercorns, and some salt.
When to use Stock vs. Broth: Use stock when a sauce is to be reduced significantly or when clarity of the final result is preferred.
Broths can be substituted for stock when the body of the liquid or clarity isn't important, and when the liquid will be thickened by addition of a starch.


Friday 23 March 2012

Marinated Calamari Tentacles

Squid is a popular food in many parts of the world. In many of the languages around the Mediterranean sea, squid are referred to by a term related to the Italian "calamari" (singular "calamaro"), which in English has become a culinary name for Mediterranean dishes involving squid, especially fried squid (fried calamari).

Calamari tentacles are commonly seen in restaurants and eateries as starters or sides comprising of tiny, crispy or battered morels.  While being tasty bite sized delights, one can how ever buy them as rather large, fleshy more substantial individuals.  Speciality fish mongers will stock them and if they don't you could ask them to source you some on request.  I get mine from the Pretoria Fresh Produce Market's meat, fish and poultry section - good value and great quality.

Ingredients:
1kg large calamari tentacles
2 limes or 1 lemon
1 fresh paprika pepper...
        or a red pepper 
1 yellow pepper 
1 large chilly
parsley 
lemon thyme or normal thyme 
4 cloves of garlic 

1 carrot
a stick of celery
1 red onions
250 ml olive oil 
salt and pepper
250 ml white wine 

Bring a large pot of water to the boil.  Add the carrot, onion, celery (cut into large chunks). Add roughly chopped parsley (a hand or so) some thyme, salt and pepper, white wine and 2 cloves of garlic (bruise them with the flat of your blade) Add the calamari and cook till tender. This can take up to 2 hours, test them after an hour for tenderness, you must still be able to handle them so don't allow them to go to soft.  Strain and set aside to cool.  Once u can handle them remove the outer membrane. Yes Yes I know! This is proper slow food and i promise you its worth all the effort!

While your calamari cools make the marinade: Zest and juice the limes/lemon.  Chop the chilly, garlic, parsley and peppers till fine but not minced. Combine all with the olive oil, add some fresh thyme and season with salt and pepper to taste.

Mix all together and allow to marinade for at least 12 hours.  They will keep for quite a long time in your fridge so that's a bonus to all the hard work :) Serve with fresh coriander or Italian parsley and ciabatta or pita breads! Also great in a salad.

Thursday 22 March 2012

Beef Fillet Trinchado

This popular spicy meat dish of Angolan and Mozambican origin is a favorite in South African kitchens, and this version is quick, easy and simply delicious.  Cuts of rump is traditionally used, but I've decided on strips of fillet, cutting the cooking time and lending a more sophisticated angle to the dish.  

Ingredients:


1 kg beef fillet strips
1 large onion finely sliced
50ml Worcestershire sauce
1 cup red wine
3/4 cloves crushed garlic
1 bay leaf
salt and pepper to taste
1 teaspoon paprika
2/3 small red chilies chopped
butter and oil for frying
brandy
cream



Mix the Worcestershire sauce, garlic (minced), wine, salt, pepper, paprika, chilies and bay leaf into the strips of fillet.  Cover with cling film and allow to marinade over night in the fridge 
(YES! You'll have to do this the day before)  

Prepare on order. Get your pan well heated on medium high heat.  Saute the onion in some butter and set aside.  Add oil to the pan and use about 250 g of the fillet mix for each serving. Do not crowd the pan and don't agitate the meat to much! This way the meat will carmalize while still retaining its juices and tenderness.  If you go about it correctly your fillet strips will be grilled in about 2 minutes. Add the onions. At this stage I add a heaped teaspoon of paprika, this will help to thicken the sauce. Add a shot or so of brandy and set to flame.  Add a ladle of vegetable stock, and enough cream to just cover the meat. Add some of the marinade, 1 or 2 desert spoons.
Simmer for 5 min and plate with bread and good kalamata olives. PRESTO! 

Monday 19 March 2012

Cumin Pear Gnocchi with Ver Belegen Sauce

Gnocchi are traditionally eaten as a first course (primi piatti).They are generally home-made in Italian and diaspora Italian households. They may also be bought fresh from specialty stores. In supermarkets, industrially-produced packaged gnocchi are widely available refrigerated, dried, or frozen. Common accompaniments of gnocchi include tomato saucespesto, and melted butter (sometimes fried butter) with cheese. 

These gorgeous cloudy dumplings are best eaten freshly prepared and I have never had 
pre-made gnocchi that tasted nearly as good. Making fresh gnocchi is simple but it needs a bit of time and attention.  When your get waxed it really is quite quick to prepare. There are many variations on the theme, with good olive oil and parmasan cheese or with fried butter and sage. Often enjoyed with a creamy sauces and blue vain cheeses.

Here we experimented with some balanced flavors: Cumin infused blush pears, grilled in olive oil and flamed with brandy.  Pan deglazed with cream, rich mature cheese added and allowed to reduced.  Finished with parmasan shavings, roasted pine kernels and fresh pomogranet seeds


Ver or Extra Belegen cheese is a dutch gouda or Graskaas, made from the first milkings after the cows return to the grassy polders from a winter spent inside. Ver Belegen is matured for 7 to 8 months, is ideal for cooking and has an immediate vivacious flavor. A blue vain cheese such as Gorgonzola may also be used in moderation. (Bleu de Graven is a blue vain dutch Gouda that is rich and creamy and not as salty) 

Tip: looking for a local producer of Ver Belegen cheese? Contact Johan at Van Der Poel Kaas

Rich? yes - instead of the fillet go for the goods.
Flashy? perhaps not for the high table.
Delicious? Absolutely and good looking as well.


The Gnocchi

Ingredients:

1 kg brown starchy potatoes
300g Double Zero wheat flour
1 large egg (try for free-range/organic)
salt to taste
a pinch of nutmeg.

Boil the potatoes skin on in a large pot or pan with a fair amount of salt. Heat them up gently to prevent them from bursting open and becoming water logged.  Cook till tender (poke a table knife right through and retract, if it slips of the blade they are done). Strain and set about pealing the potatoes. They need to still be warm when you mix the dough so work with a tea towel to shield your hand against the heat.

Mash the potatoes as well as u can. Add half the flour and the rest of the ingredients. Mix well and add more flour until you have a workable dough.  Get your largest pot, mine is the pressure cooker, filled high with water and well salted to boiling 

Tip: use two eggs if your eggs are a bit small.

Break fist size chunks off the dough and use your hands to role it into a long sausage shape, about 2cm in diameter. Use flour as needed and don't be shy, it becomes a sticky mess if u are. With a flat blade knife cut 2cm lengths off your sausage. Toss them in more flour and separate them on a floured surface.  Using a fork press grooves onto the gnocchi to allow the sauce to be picked up by each dumpling. Ask the kids to help its great fun ;) It really doesn't matter what they look like as long as they are all basically the same size - if you want to call it rustic so be it.

The water should be boiling rapidly. Add the uncooked gnocchi little by little, some cooks bounce them of the board, so they cook separately.  Gently stir the pot at intervals. As soon as the dumplings float to the top they are cooked, use a strainer spoon or basket to collect them and douse with olive oil while resting.

Tip: Your gnocchi may be frozen in a single layer container for up to 3 weeks and still taste wonderful after defrosted and revived in some boiling water.


The Rest

Ingredients: per serving
blush pear
a dusting of ground cumin
some cumin seeds
a dash of brandy
olive oil
100 ml fresh cream
100 ml vegetable stock
125 ml Ver Belegen cheese grated
salt to taste.

The rest happens a la minute so one could prepare the gnocchi in advance. Try and find sweet tasty pears. Cut your pear down each side of the stem to leave a thin slice of the whole pear shape.  Cut the rest of the pear into wedges, remove the seeds if u like but I couldn't bother and coat all with olive oil. Dust some ground cumin over each side. If your pears happen not to be sweet add a little castor sugar (its the sweetness of the pear and the tangy bite of the cheese that make this dish) 

Heat up a large skillet and add some cumin seeds.  Wait till the cumin releases they fragrance and add olive oil.  Grill the pear on high till well caramelized.  Add a shot of brandy and allow to flame. Setting the pears aside we deglaze the skillet with some vegetable stock and cream, add the Ver Belegen cheese (go on add more if u want) and allow to reduce. Keep an eye out, if it reduces to much add some more cream. 

Tip: If you feel your sauce needs seasoning add a little black pepper and parmasan cheese instead of salt.

Plate some of your fresh home made gnocchi in a pasta bowl and add just enough sauce to coat the dumplings. Arrange the pear wedges around the edge and make the center slice stand akimbo in the middle. Finish with shavings of parmasan cheese and garnish with the roasted pine kernels, pomegranate seeds and a drizzle of olive oil. Season with cracked black pepper and Maldon salt. Enjoy!

Tip: pre-heat your pasta plates in the oven for a hot meal at serving. 


http://www.facebook.com/foodieSA



LIKE US ON FACE BOOK